Spa Buyer´s Guide
The spa buyer’s guide.
From its humble beginnings as a converted wooden wine barrel, the original hot tub has evolved into a sophisticated and increasingly popular addition to homes around the world. Today, millions of households regularly enjoy the soothing benefits of hot water spas — here’s how to choose the right one.
Where to start.
In your search for the perfect spa you’ll quickly discover that there is a lot of confusing data out there that is hard to correlate. We compiled this guide to help cut through the confusion — comparing products and understanding the differences. Like most things you tend to get what you pay for in a spa, so it pays to know what to look for.
Spas are a bit like cars: the more accessories you add, the more expensive they become. The bigger the motor — or the number of jets and pumps — the more luxurious the spa, and the higher the price. Portable spas remain the most popular choice — considerably less expensive than built-in or in-ground spas, self-contained, and easily installed on a terrace, balcony, in the garden, or even on a roof.
They’re not permanent property improvements, so they don’t require building permits, won’t increase your property taxes, and you can even take them with you when you move.
What to look for first.
The shell
The shell should be made of acrylic produced by Aristech® or Lucite® — the two largest spa-shell material producers in the world. Today’s shells are practically indestructible, resistant to impact, sun damage, chemicals and extreme temperatures. A very light spa is a red flag — the shell makes up more than half of the weight.
Capacity & fit
Make sure the number of people you want in the spa fit comfortably and that the unit fits nicely where you intend to put it. Brown and grey are the most commonly available colours; grey covers don’t show the dust that settles on every cover, so many owners now choose grey for both surround and cover.
The dealer
Take a long look at the dealer and his setup. Make sure you can trust him and that he will be there when you need him. Money saved on a cheap deal can be lost many times over with a fly-by-night dealer who disappears the moment something needs servicing.
Structure, surround & base.
The structure is the frame that holds the shell in place — not to be confused with the surround, the cabinet around the outside of the spa. Some manufacturers blur the two and have virtually no real structure. Ask to look inside, and pay attention to both the structure and the panelling.
The structure should be made of materials that won’t rot or deteriorate — polymers and stainless steel are best. Wood is the worst option as it eventually rots or is attacked by termites. The best spas now have no wood in them at all. Modern surrounds use wood-plastic composites that look like timber but need no upkeep.
The base should be sealed with a water-resistant covering that also keeps rodents and insects out, and the whole spa should be a completely closed unit.
A serious cover locks heat in.
No spa should be without a protective cover. Rigid covers serve a major safety function — locking kids and pets out — while also keeping the water clean and valuable heat in.
The most durable covers are constructed of styrofoam with a thick marine-vinyl skin and non-cotton backing. The styrofoam should be a minimum of 9 cm thick, tapered to 8 cm for water run-off, reinforced at the centre fold, with an efficient lock against weather and curious children. Always remove the entire cover before climbing in — and replace it when finished.
Most dealers offer cover “lifters” so one person can remove the cover easily — a must for larger spas. Different lifter types stow the cover behind, above, or on a shelf, depending on the space available.
Water jets & jet sequencers.
Quality manufacturers position special jet systems all around the spa so every occupant benefits from them. White or grey plastic jets have given way to stainless steel, which doesn’t fade or change colour. The more adjustable the jets, the better — you should be able to control the intensity of water flow as well as the amount of air mixed with the water.
Most spas include air venturi systems that drag air into the water before it reaches the jet, creating a stronger, more powerful massage. These venturis are controlled by valves on the top of the spa.
It’s not the quantity of jets that matters — it’s the type and quality. Look for variety, adjustability and versatility, multi-jet clusters, and groups designed for specific muscle areas.
Air jets, blowers & aromatherapy.
Not to be confused with water jets, many spas are also equipped with air-blower systems that pump air through a totally separate set of jets to create a bubbling effect.
An interesting innovation has been the addition of aromatherapy to the air-blower system. In the past, perfumes added directly to the water were quickly filtered out and tended to clog the filter. Now, in spas equipped with a blower, air is passed through a canister containing the chosen scent — bubbling up right under your nose. The water stays clean, the filter stays clean, and the scent works.
Aroma sachets come in many scents. To change scents, simply rinse the sachet, drip or spray new oil onto it, and you’re ready.
Motors, pumps & circulation.
Many people consider the jets the most important feature in a spa — but it is the motors and pumps that are at the heart of the system. You need enough motors and pumps, and they have to be powerful enough to run the jets correctly. There’s no rule about how many jets per pump, but they should be balanced.
There are two common systems: the 2-speed pump and the dedicated circulation pump. Both filter and heat the water through the same path — but they accomplish it differently.
2-Speed pump
One pump does both jobs: low speed handles filtration and heating, high speed runs the massage jets. All returning water comes out of all the massage jets.
- Simple, fewer components to fail
- Soft mode for gentle circulation
- Strong massage from every return jet
- Low-speed noise during filtration
Dedicated circulation pump
A separate pump only circulates water through the filter and heater. Jets stay strong and dedicated. Avoid 24-hour circulation pumps — you can’t adjust them, they heat the water in summer, and they’re less efficient than they appear.
- Filtration runs while massage is on
- Programmable filter cycles
- All return jets remain at full strength
- More plumbing to maintain
- 24-hour pumps can’t be turned down
Control system & display.
All spas have a control system — called a “spa pack” — connected to one or more topside displays. The pack controls water temperature, filtration, ozonators, jet pumps, blowers, lights and any other accessory. The display lets you set temperature, time and filter cycles.
The vast majority of spas use packs from Balboa or Gecko — the two main North American manufacturers — though some brands build their own. If a manufacturer builds its own pack, parts can be very expensive and only available from that brand. Find out if parts are readily available from multiple sources before you buy.
Filters: more cloth, longer life.
All portable spas use pleated cloth filters — usually polyester. Water is drawn through the skimmer aperture into the filter housing, then through the cloth, then through the pump and heater, and finally back into the spa.
Filters are rated by how much cloth they contain. The more cloth and pleats, the more efficiently they clean the water and the longer they last. A good filter can last up to 3 years; a bad one can disintegrate in 6 months. Watch out for systems with 4 or 5 small filters — they can have less cloth in total than a single big filter and cost more to replace. A typical filter has 40–50 ft² of cloth; large ones go up to 100 ft².
If there is more than one filter, find out whether water passes through all of them or only some during normal filtration.
Ozonators, UV & salt systems.
Ozonator (standard)
Be sure your spa comes with an ozonator. It creates and injects ozone into the water while filtration is on, killing certain kinds of bacteria and appreciably reducing the amount of chemicals needed to maintain the water. These are now standard.
UV sanitiser
UV systems use germicidal UV light rays to alter the DNA or RNA of bacteria, viruses, algae and protozoa. Highly concentrated electromagnetic energy also destroys organic matter, eliminating dangerous chlorine by-products. Usually an upgrade or high-end feature.
Salt electrolysis
Salt systems produce bromine or chlorine through electrolysis from salt dissolved in the water. The water doesn’t taste salty — chemicals produced eliminate bacteria, then convert back to salt. They reduce, but don’t eliminate, the need for chemicals.
Heat lock beats full foam.
Full foam — spraying the entire space between surround and shell — sounds great in theory. In Alaska, perhaps. On the Costa del Sol, it isn’t.
The first problem is mice and rats: they love burrowing into insulating foam to make nests, and they don’t know the difference between foam and pipes. Leaks in fully foamed spas are a nightmare to find — sometimes the spa has to go back to the factory. In warm climates, full foam can also overheat the equipment.
The best system is heat lock: a thin layer of foam on the inside of the shell, plus insulation on the inside walls of the cabinet. Heat is retained, equipment ventilates naturally, and pump heat is reused.
For heaters, the standard immersion heater — same as a domestic water heater — is reliable. Diffusion-type heaters that don’t touch the water lose more heat and are usually expensive proprietary parts.
Lights, sound & nice-to-haves.
LED illumination
All spas come with at least one underwater light. Modern systems use LED “bulbs” or LED “strings” installed strategically around the spa — even inside the jets. Solid colours or full-spectrum rotation create a soothing light show. More reliable and longer-lived than the fibre-optic systems they replaced.
Stereo & TV
Built-in stereos with pop-up speakers, LCD TVs that rise out of the side of the spa, even bars with refrigerators are available on some models. Be aware: these accessories are extremely expensive built in. For the same money you can have an external stereo or TV that’s safer, further from the water, and easier to upgrade later.
The warranty
A typical warranty covers the shell for 10 years, the structure for 5 years, and equipment like motors, heaters and pumps for 2 years. Check what is covered, for how long, and what exclusions apply. Find out the dealer’s call-out charge — warranty covers parts, not technician travel time.
Making your choice.
Which model?
Decide how big and deep a spa you want. Estimate how many people will normally use it at one time and buy accordingly. Try it in the showroom — even if it’s dry, climb in and check that you feel comfortable. Never buy from a catalogue alone.
Which manufacturer?
Find out exactly how long the company has been manufacturing and where the spas are built. Ask where the parts come from — brands using major component suppliers tend to be cheaper to service. Ask whether they wet-test units before shipping.
Which dealer?
Choosing a great spa is of little use if you’ve picked a useless dealer. Does the dealer know his stuff? Does he offer full installation and after-sales? Can he supply chemicals, accessories and test kits? Ask for references — the best advertisement is a happy customer.
Your buying checklist.
- Aristech® or Lucite® acrylic shell
- Stainless-steel or polymer structure — no wood
- Sealed water-resistant base
- 9 cm tapered, lockable cover with cover lifter
- Stainless-steel adjustable jets with venturi air mix
- Separate air blower with aroma canister
- Adequately sized pumps (avoid 24-hour circ. pumps)
- Programmable filter cycles — 24× daily turnover capable
- Balboa or Gecko spa pack — widely-available parts
- 40–100 ft² pleated polyester filter
- Standard ozonator; UV or salt as upgrades
- Heat-lock insulation, not full foam
- Standard immersion heater
- LED lighting; consider extras carefully
- Clear warranty on shell, structure, equipment
- Trustworthy dealer with references and after-sales
Don’t get yourself into hot water.
Quite often it is the little things that say the most. Check the quality and finishing of the control panels, handles, surround and trim. Look in the equipment compartment, even if you don’t know what every component does. Try the spa for size. Ask a lot of questions before you buy — it could make the difference between enjoying a good soak and getting yourself into hot water.
